Electrical Help
Ceiling fan wobbling? Dimmer switch that doesn't dim? Outlet that's dead for no reason? We handle light electrical work — the kind that doesn't need a licensed electrician and a $200 service call.
I've installed probably 300+ ceiling fans across your area at this point. Hunter, Hampton Bay, Minka-Aire — they all go up the same way (mostly). The tricky part is when you've got an old junction box that can't support the weight, or when the previous owner did some creative wiring. We figure it out.
What We Actually Do
Electrical Jobs We Handle
- Ceiling fan install — new installs, replacements, adding a remote kit
- Light fixture swaps — chandeliers, vanity lights, outdoor sconces, recessed LED conversions
- Dimmer switches — single-pole, 3-way, smart dimmers (Lutron Caseta is our go-to)
- Outlet and switch replacement — standard, GFCI, USB outlets
- Smart home basics — Ring doorbells, Nest thermostats, smart switches
Last month, a couple in your area near ASU bought a house where every single light switch was painted over. Fourteen switches. Took about two hours, and their lights actually work now. Sometimes it's the simple stuff.
Common Scenarios We Fix
Most electrical calls fall into a few patterns. Dead outlets happen when a breaker trips or a GFCI outlet upstream gets tripped—usually in the kitchen or bathroom. You flip the breaker back, or push the reset button, and you're done. But sometimes it's actually a loose wire or a failing outlet. We find it.
Ceiling fans are probably 40% of our electrical work. People either want to replace a builder-grade box fan with something that doesn't sound like a helicopter, or the existing fan is wobbling so bad they think it'll come through the drywall. Sometimes the wobble is just loose blades. Sometimes the whole motor is shot. We know the difference.
Dimmer switches fail more often than people think. You get flickering, or the switch stops responding, or it burns out LED bulbs left and right. Could be the switch itself. Could be you're mixing old incandescent dimmers with new LED bulbs—they don't always play nice. We'll swap it for something that actually works with what you've got.
Light fixture replacements are straightforward if the junction box is in good shape. If it's not—if it's corroded, cracked, or you're trying to hang something that weighs 15 pounds from a box rated for 5—we'll upgrade the box too.
How Long Does This Take?
Most jobs take one to two hours. A simple outlet replacement is 30 minutes. A ceiling fan in a standard room is 45 minutes to an hour. If we have to replace the junction box, add 30 minutes. A light fixture swap is usually an hour. Smart home installs like Ring doorbells or Nest thermostats run 45 minutes to an hour, depending on your WiFi setup and how fancy you want to get with the wiring.
If we show up and find something unexpected—old knob-and-tube wiring, a box that's been stuffed with wire like a rat's nest, or something else that needs a licensed electrician—we'll tell you right then. No surprises later.
Tools and Materials We Use
Most of the time, we bring our own materials. Outlet and switch plates, wire nuts, electrical tape, mounting brackets—all of it. We use Lutron Caseta smart switches because they're reliable and work with most home automation systems without needing a separate hub. For ceiling fans, we use heavy-duty fan braces when the junction box needs support. The cheap brackets from Home Depot last about 18 months. We don't use those.
Tools-wise: wire strippers, needle-nose pliers, a voltage tester (non-negotiable—always test before you touch), a drill with various bits, and a fish tape for running wire through walls if needed. A level for the fans. That's about it.
For LED recessed light conversions, we use LED retrofit kits that fit into existing housings—no need to cut new holes in your ceiling. They're dimmable, they last 25,000+ hours, and they run cool. Way better than the old halogens that turned your attic into an oven.
What We Don't Do
Panel work, new circuits, whole-house rewiring, or anything involving permits. We'll tell you straight if a job needs a licensed electrician — and we know a few good ones.
If you need a new 240V circuit run for an electric range, or you're upgrading from 100-amp service to 200-amp, that's a licensed electrician job. It requires permits, inspections, and utility involvement. Not our lane.
Typical Pricing
Most basic electrical work runs between $150 and $400, depending on what you're doing. A simple outlet or switch replacement is on the lower end. Ceiling fan installs usually run $200 to $300, plus the cost of the fan itself. Light fixture swaps are $150 to $250. Smart home stuff—doorbells, thermostats—runs $150 to $300 depending on complexity.
If we need to upgrade a junction box or do something more involved, we'll quote you before we start. No guessing.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe to replace outlets and switches myself?
If you know what you're doing—test for power first, understand wire colors, don't touch anything live—sure. If you're not confident, call us. A $200 service call beats a house fire by a mile.
Can you install a ceiling fan in a room without an existing light fixture?
Not if there's no junction box in the ceiling above where you want it. We can rough one in if the attic is accessible, but that gets into new circuit territory. We'd point you to a licensed electrician for that one.
Do you handle bathroom exhaust fans?
Installation, yes. But if you need a new duct run to the exterior, that might involve cutting through joists or the roof, and it gets complicated. We can install one in an existing setup, no problem.
Ready to Get It Fixed?
No sense living with dead outlets, flickering lights, or ceiling fans that sound like they're about to launch. Book online and we'll get you squared away. If you'd rather just call and talk it through, use the contact form and we'll get back to you within a few hours.
